Surfing is a thrilling sport that combines skill, balance, and the power of the ocean. One term that frequently pops up in the surfing world is “getting pitted.” If you’re a beginner or new to the sport, you may be wondering what exactly this means. Don’t worry! This article will break down the concept of getting pitted in surfing, explore how it happens, why it’s such an exciting part of surfing culture, and offer tips for achieving this moment in your surfing journey.
What Does “Getting Pitted” Mean?
“Getting pitted” refers to the moment when a surfer rides deep inside the barrel of a wave, also known as the tube. The “pit” is the hollow section of the wave where the water forms a sort of tunnel or barrel. When a surfer is “in the pit,” they are riding within this hollow, often while the wave is curling over them. It’s a thrilling experience because it feels as if you’re inside the wave, surrounded by water on all sides, and the wave is about to break over you.
The Science Behind the Pit
To understand how a surfer gets pitted, it’s essential to understand how waves form and break. Ocean waves are created by wind blowing across the surface of the water. When these waves approach the shore, they change shape and behavior depending on the depth of the water and the angle at which they hit the coastline.
A “barrel” forms when the wave steepens and collapses, creating a hollow space within the wave. The top part of the wave curls over the face, forming a tunnel-like structure. This is the pit. When a surfer is able to position themselves inside this barrel and ride it without being swallowed by the breaking wave, they’re considered to be “getting pitted.”
The Thrill of Getting Pitted
For most surfers, getting pitted is one of the ultimate goals of surfing. It’s often described as a feeling of being inside a moving, living creature. The rush comes from the sense of speed, the isolation inside the wave, and the connection with nature as you ride through the barrel.
Surrounding Water: The feeling of being inside the wave is exhilarating. Water is rushing around you, and you are riding the wave from within, which makes the experience feel unique and exhilarating.
Speed: The sheer speed at which you’re traveling while inside the barrel is part of what makes the moment so thrilling. If you are able to hold the line and keep riding within the tube, the sensation can be almost like a high-speed roller coaster ride.
Skill Level: Getting pitted is also a sign of a surfer’s skill. It requires timing, control, and a deep understanding of wave dynamics. A surfer who can consistently get pitted demonstrates a high level of mastery over the sport.
The Perfect Wave for Getting Pitted
Not every wave will offer the opportunity to get pitted. Certain conditions need to align for the wave to form a barrel that a surfer can ride. Some of the factors that contribute to the perfect wave for getting pitted include:
Wave Shape and Size: The wave needs to have a steep face and a significant amount of size. Smaller waves generally won’t barrel as much, while waves that are too big may be too difficult for a beginner to manage.
Wave Speed: Faster waves have a higher chance of creating a barrel. As the wave reaches the shore and increases in steepness, the lip of the wave (the top part) will curl over the face of the wave, creating the pit. The faster the wave, the more likely it will hollow out and form a barrel.
Wave Type: Reef breaks, point breaks, and certain beach breaks are more likely to produce barreling waves. Each wave type behaves differently, and reef breaks are often where you’ll see the best barrels form.
Wind Direction: The wind also plays a crucial role in whether or not a wave will barrel. Offshore winds (winds blowing from the land to the sea) help create clean, hollow waves that are more likely to barrel.
Getting Pitted vs. Riding a Regular Wave
So how does getting pitted differ from simply riding a wave? A standard wave ride involves surfing along the face of the wave, carving and turning as you go. While this is exciting and challenging in its own right, it lacks the extreme feeling of being inside the barrel.
The key difference between getting pitted and a regular wave ride is the experience of being inside the wave. When you’re “in the pit,” you are essentially inside the wave’s hollow section, riding through a moving tunnel of water. This requires precise timing, balance, and wave-reading skills. On a regular wave ride, you are typically riding the open face of the wave, often carving turns and attempting to maximize speed.
The Risk Factor of Getting Pitted
While getting pitted is a coveted goal for many surfers, it’s not without its risks. Here are some of the dangers associated with riding inside the barrel:
Getting Caught Inside: If you’re not able to get out of the barrel before it closes, you may get caught inside the wave. This means the wave will break over you, potentially knocking you down and holding you underwater for a moment. This can be dangerous, especially on big waves.
Wipeouts: When a surfer is deep inside the barrel and the wave collapses, the force of the water can throw them off their board, leading to a wipeout. Depending on the size of the wave, wipeouts can be pretty intense.
Strong Rip Currents: Waves that barrel often occur in areas with strong rip currents. These currents can pull surfers away from the shore, making it difficult to get back on their board and back to safety.
Sharp Reef: Many barreling waves break over reef breaks, which can be dangerous if you wipeout. The sharp coral and rocks below the surface pose a risk of injury.
How to Get Pitted: Tips for Surfers
If you’re an aspiring surfer and want to experience the thrill of getting pitted, here are a few tips to help you work towards that goal:
Improve Your Wave Reading Skills: Understanding how waves break and how to position yourself is crucial to getting pitted. Learn to read the wave’s shape and anticipate when and where it will barrel.
Practice Your Speed and Timing: You need to be able to generate enough speed to get inside the barrel. This requires good paddling technique and the ability to match the speed of the wave as it approaches. The right timing will allow you to dive into the barrel before the wave closes over you.
Perfect Your Bottom Turn: The bottom turn is one of the most important maneuvers for getting pitted. A solid bottom turn allows you to gain speed and set up the right position to enter the barrel. Make sure to stay low to the board and use your back foot to generate power.
Stay Relaxed: When you’re inside the barrel, it’s easy to panic, especially if you’re new to the experience. Stay relaxed and trust your instincts. Focus on your balance, stay low, and keep your eyes on the exit of the barrel.
Learn to Duck Dive: When the wave is about to break, you’ll need to duck dive your board to avoid being caught inside. This maneuver is essential for staying safe and getting in the right position for a barrel.
Start Small: If you’re just beginning, don’t go straight for the massive waves. Start with smaller, more manageable barrels and work your way up as you gain experience and confidence.
Surf with Experienced Surfers: Surrounding yourself with experienced surfers will give you a chance to learn from their techniques. They can offer advice on how to position yourself, read the waves, and avoid common mistakes.
Conclusion
Getting pitted is one of the most exhilarating experiences in surfing. It’s the moment when you’re riding the wave from inside the barrel, surrounded by water, feeling the rush of speed and power. While it takes skill, practice, and the right wave conditions, with patience and dedication, you can achieve the coveted moment of being in the pit. Keep honing your skills, respect the ocean, and always prioritize safety as you work towards mastering this exciting aspect of surfing.