Surfing is an exhilarating sport that requires skill, balance, and a deep understanding of the ocean. One of the challenges surfers face, especially when riding bigger waves, is the hold down. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced surfer, it’s essential to know what a hold down is and how to deal with it. In this article, we’ll explain what a hold down is, why it happens, and how surfers can handle it to stay safe in the water.
Understanding a Hold Down
A hold down occurs when a surfer gets caught under a wave and is unable to quickly surface for air. This situation can be very scary, especially for less experienced surfers or in rougher conditions. A hold down can last anywhere from a few seconds to 20 seconds or more, depending on the size and strength of the wave.
During a hold down, the force of the wave pushes the surfer underwater, sometimes dragging them along with it. The surfer is forced to hold their breath while trying to maintain composure, with the goal of surfacing once the wave has passed. However, the underwater turbulence, or white water, can make it harder to find your way back to the surface.
How Does a Hold Down Happen?
A hold down usually happens when a surfer is caught in the impact zone of a wave, which is the area where waves break. When a wave breaks, it generates a lot of force, and surfers can get swept under the surface. The size and power of the wave often determine how long the hold down lasts. Larger waves tend to have more energy and can drag surfers deeper underwater.
There are several factors that can contribute to a hold down:
Wave Size and Power: Bigger waves are more likely to result in a longer and more forceful hold down. The larger the wave, the more water it pushes over the surfer.
Position on the Wave: If a surfer is too close to the peak of the wave or in the middle of the break, they are more likely to be pushed underwater.
Surfer’s Skill Level: Inexperienced surfers may not be as adept at navigating the surf zone, making them more susceptible to hold downs.
Ocean Conditions: Strong currents, rip tides, and other ocean conditions can increase the likelihood of a hold down.
The Phases of a Hold Down
To better understand what happens during a hold down, it’s helpful to break it down into phases:
Impact with the Wave: As the wave breaks, it crashes down with significant force, pushing the surfer underwater. This initial impact is often the most intense and can disorient the surfer.
Submersion: After the wave breaks, the surfer is often held beneath the surface by the power of the water. During this phase, the surfer may struggle to orient themselves and find their bearings.
Turbulence: White water, or turbulent water, often surrounds the surfer during the hold down. This can make it difficult to swim to the surface, as the water is constantly moving and shifting.
Descent and Ascent: Depending on the wave, the surfer may be dragged deeper into the water or may start to rise again after the wave passes. The goal is to find the surface and breathe.
Recovery: Once the hold down is over, the surfer will typically resurface and catch their breath. However, depending on the wave, they may need to be ready for another hold down or wave to come.
The Dangers of a Hold Down
A hold down can be dangerous if not managed properly. The most significant danger is running out of air, as the surfer will need to breathe to avoid panic or fainting. While most surfers can hold their breath for several seconds, it becomes much harder when the body is under stress and the waves are continuing to crash.
Other dangers of a hold down include:
Panicking: When a surfer is stuck underwater, the natural instinct is to panic. Panic can worsen the situation, leading to rapid breathing or uncontrolled movements, which can make it even harder to break free from the hold down.
Exhaustion: If a surfer is caught in a long hold down or multiple waves, they can become physically exhausted. This can make it difficult to swim to the surface or fight against the current.
Injury: If a surfer is pushed into rocks or the ocean floor during a hold down, they could sustain an injury. The strong impact of waves can also cause bruises or fractures if the surfer is forced into turbulent waters.
How to Handle a Hold Down
Surviving a hold down requires staying calm and using the right techniques. Here are some key strategies for handling a hold down:
1. Stay Calm and Conserve Energy
The first and most important thing to do when caught in a hold down is to stay calm. Panicking will only increase your heart rate and consume more oxygen. Focus on taking slow, deep breaths while waiting for the wave to pass. Relax your body to conserve energy and keep your mind clear.
2. Prepare for the Hold Down
Experienced surfers are often able to anticipate a hold down before it happens. They position themselves away from the peak of the wave and are aware of the conditions around them. If you know a large wave is coming, it’s a good idea to dive under the wave early to minimize the impact.
3. Use Your Board to Help You Resurface
Surfboards are often designed to float, which means that they can help you stay near the surface. If you’re caught underwater, try holding on to your board to help you rise. You can use the board to push yourself upward or use the paddle if you’re on a longboard. If you’re on a shortboard, you can still use it as a reference point to help orient yourself.
4. Wait for the Wave to Pass
Sometimes the best option is simply to wait until the wave’s energy dissipates. Once the wave passes and the water becomes less turbulent, you can begin to swim toward the surface. If you’re still caught in the white water, swim hard to break free and reach calm waters.
5. Know When to Let Go
If you’re caught in a particularly strong hold down or current, it might be necessary to let go of your board for a while. This can give you more freedom to move and escape. However, always make sure to keep track of your board, as it can help you stay afloat when the worst of the turbulence is over.
6. Use the Power of the Ocean to Your Advantage
In certain situations, a surfer can use the natural power of the ocean to help them get out of a hold down. By positioning yourself correctly, using the current to propel you, or timing your movements with the waves, you can break free from the hold down more quickly.
Preventing Hold Downs
While it’s impossible to completely avoid the risk of a hold down, there are several things surfers can do to reduce their chances of getting caught:
Know the surf conditions: Always check the surf report before going out. Understanding the wave size, current, and wind conditions can help you prepare.
Learn how to dive properly: When a wave is approaching, diving under it properly can reduce your chances of being caught in the impact zone.
Practice breath-holding exercises: Breath-holding exercises can help you stay calm and hold your breath longer if you do get caught underwater.
Conclusion
A hold down is an essential part of surfing that every surfer needs to understand. Whether you’re new to surfing or an experienced rider, knowing how to handle a hold down can make the difference between staying calm and staying safe. By following the tips and strategies outlined in this article, you can reduce the risks associated with hold downs and enjoy the thrill of surfing with confidence. Remember: in surfing, safety comes first, so always be prepared and respect the power of the ocean.