Surfing is a sport filled with thrilling moments and unique terms. One of the most exciting and iconic experiences in surfing is riding inside a “barrel.” For surfers, this term is something to aspire to, but it can be confusing for beginners. In this article, we will break down what a barrel is, how it forms, the types of barrels, and why it holds such a special place in the hearts of surfers.
The Definition of a Barrel
In surfing, a “barrel” refers to the hollow section of a wave, which forms a tunnel that a surfer can ride through. It is the part of the wave that curls over the surfer, creating a tube-like shape. When a surfer manages to ride inside this tube, they are considered to be “in the barrel.” The barrel is the ultimate goal for many surfers because it represents an intense, thrilling experience.
When you hear the term “getting barreled,” it refers to a surfer successfully navigating through the hollow part of the wave. The moment a surfer is inside the barrel, they are surrounded by water on all sides, creating a feeling of both excitement and danger. Riding a barrel requires skill, timing, and the ability to read waves well.
How a Barrel Forms
To understand how a barrel forms, it’s important to know how waves break. Waves are generated by wind, which creates ripples on the surface of the water. As these ripples move across the ocean, they eventually reach shallow water near the shore, where they start to slow down and grow in height. The shape of the wave changes as it moves, and when the bottom of the wave touches the seafloor, it begins to break.
The barrel occurs when a wave breaks in a way that causes the top of the wave to curl over and form a hollow tube. This typically happens in powerful waves, often found in certain surf spots where the ocean floor has a sharp slope or underwater features, such as reefs or sandbars, that help the wave form more dramatically.
For a barrel to form, the wave must be steep and powerful enough to curl over itself. If the wave is too slow or not powerful enough, it will break without forming a barrel. A perfect barrel requires a combination of the right wave size, shape, and speed, as well as the surfer’s ability to time their entry correctly.
The Types of Barrels
Not all barrels are created equal. There are different types of barrels, and each has its own characteristics. Surfers often classify barrels based on how they break and how a surfer interacts with them.
Left-Handed Barrels
A left-handed barrel is when the wave breaks from right to left as the surfer faces the wave. This type of barrel is common in areas like Hawaii and Indonesia. Surfers who are regular footed (i.e., left foot forward on the board) tend to prefer left-handed barrels because they feel more natural. Surfers who are goofy footed (i.e., right foot forward) may find these barrels more challenging.
Right-Handed Barrels
On the other hand, a right-handed barrel breaks from left to right. This is often the barrel of choice for goofy footed surfers. Right-handed barrels are more common on the East Coast of the United States, in parts of Australia, and in certain areas of the Pacific Ocean.
The Close-Out Barrel
A close-out barrel occurs when the wave doesn’t form a complete tube but instead crashes all at once. Surfers usually avoid riding close-out barrels because they do not offer the same thrilling experience as a perfect, open barrel. These waves are often unpredictable and can be dangerous.
The Perfect Barrel
The ultimate barrel is one that offers a long, open tube that a surfer can ride through from start to finish. This type of barrel is often considered the holy grail of surfing. The shape and size of the barrel vary depending on the wave, but a perfect barrel is a rare and exhilarating experience that all surfers dream of.
Why Are Barrels Important to Surfers?
The barrel holds a special place in surfing culture because of its rarity and difficulty. Surfing is all about finding the right wave and timing the ride, and getting barreled is often seen as a sign of a surfer’s skill. To successfully navigate a barrel, a surfer must have excellent control over their board, the ability to read the wave, and impeccable timing.
For many surfers, the feeling of being inside a barrel is the ultimate high. The sense of isolation and power, combined with the thrill of riding through a hollow tunnel of water, is an unforgettable experience. Being inside a barrel also requires a lot of concentration, as the surfer must stay close to the face of the wave to avoid being caught by the breaking water. It’s a delicate balance of speed, skill, and timing.
The Challenge of Riding the Barrel
Riding a barrel is not easy. It requires a combination of skills and knowledge that takes years to develop. Here are some of the challenges that surfers face when trying to ride a barrel:
Timing
One of the most important factors in getting barreled is timing. A surfer needs to catch the wave at just the right moment. If they take off too early or too late, they might miss the barrel altogether. To get into the tube, a surfer needs to position themselves correctly and take off at the right angle to enter the hollow section of the wave.
Speed
Speed is another crucial element when it comes to riding a barrel. The faster the surfer is going, the more likely they are to stay in the barrel. If a surfer slows down too much, they risk getting caught by the lip of the wave or missing the barrel altogether.
The Drop
The drop is the moment when a surfer drops down the face of the wave after paddling into it. This is often the most challenging part of getting barreled. A surfer needs to make sure they are in the right position to smoothly drop into the wave and head towards the barrel without losing too much speed or getting too far ahead of the wave.
Staying Inside the Barrel
Once inside the barrel, the surfer must maintain their position by staying close to the wave’s face. This requires excellent balance and control over the board. A surfer can ride the barrel for several seconds, but they need to remain in the sweet spot of the wave to avoid being spit out of the tube.
Surfing Spots Known for Their Barrels
There are several famous surf spots around the world that are known for having incredible barrels. Some of these spots offer the chance to experience perfect barrels, while others are known for their challenging and powerful waves.
Pipeline, Hawaii
Pipeline is one of the most famous surf spots in the world. Located on the North Shore of Oahu, Pipeline is known for its perfect left-handed barrels. The reef here creates a powerful wave that forms hollow, world-class barrels. Surfers from all over the globe flock to Pipeline to experience the thrill of getting barreled.
Teahupo’o, Tahiti
Teahupo’o is another spot famous for its massive and heavy barrels. The wave breaks over a shallow reef, creating some of the thickest and most hollow barrels in the world. Surfers must have exceptional skills to navigate the powerful barrels of Teahupo’o, but for those who can handle it, it’s a dream wave.
Uluwatu, Bali
Uluwatu is a well-known surf destination in Bali, Indonesia. The reef here produces long, hollow barrels that are perfect for experienced surfers. Uluwatu offers both left and right barrels, providing a variety of challenges for surfers seeking the ultimate ride.
Jeffreys Bay, South Africa
Jeffreys Bay is famous for its long, fast barrels. Located on the Eastern Cape of South Africa, this wave offers perfect conditions for surfers who want to ride inside a barrel. The wave breaks over a sandbar, creating powerful and hollow barrels that go on for a long distance.
How to Improve Your Chances of Getting Barreled
While getting barreled may seem like something reserved for the pros, it is possible for intermediate surfers to improve their chances with practice. Here are some tips for improving your barrel-riding skills:
Practice Timing
One of the keys to getting barreled is perfecting your timing. Spend time practicing your wave selection and take-offs. The better you get at reading waves and understanding when to paddle and drop in, the more likely you are to enter the barrel successfully.
Build Speed
Building speed is another important factor. Focus on generating speed by staying low on your board and using your body weight to drive the board down the line. The more speed you have, the better your chances of staying inside the barrel.
Perfect Your Turns
To stay inside the barrel, you need to be able to turn quickly and efficiently. Practice making sharp turns on the wave to stay close to the face and avoid being ejected from the barrel. Having a solid turning technique will also help you make adjustments if you find yourself drifting out of the tube.
Conclusion
In surfing, the barrel is the ultimate goal for many surfers. It represents the perfect wave, the thrilling ride, and the feeling of being surrounded by nature’s power. Getting barreled requires skill, timing, and a lot of practice, but the reward is one of the most exhilarating experiences a surfer can have. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced surfer, the barrel will always be a symbol of the beauty and challenge of surfing.